FAQ’s

Yes, dust mites are responsible for many allergies and need carpets and soft furnishings to live in. Floor boards are ideal for asthma sufferers because they can be easily cleaned and rugs can be washed and hung out to dry in the sun which kills dust mites. Dust mites are invisible to the naked eye, but just in case you would like to see what one looks like under a microscope.

Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a completely dust-free zone; however, we only use the highest quality machines. As such, these machines come with powerful vacuums that substantially reduce the amount of dust created in your home.

If you live in a flat or semi-detached home then it may be a good idea to notify your neighbours about the upcoming work. We will always keep the noise to respectable hours and only work between 9am and 5pm.

Unless you are planning to restore the fireplace, we can easily chase out the hearth and lift the surrounding floorboards. We will then use reclaimed pine boards to fill in any floorboard gaps.

If you are curious about the process of applying wood slivers, here is a more detailed look at how we do it: Step 1 Re-nail the floor to ensure all nails are at least 3-4 mm deep. Step 2 Clean the joints out very carefully, so we don’t catch any cables or pipes. Step 3 Place a sliver into each gap and see if it is a nice, snug fit. If it fits well, remove it and put the glue down on each side. Place the sliver back in the gap and hammer all the way down the sliver, forcing it into the space. The further the sliver goes into the gap, the better. Step 4 Continue this process until the entire floor is tight and filled. Leave the slivers alone to dry for at least 4 hours. If possible, let them dry overnight. Step 5 Using a sharp chisel cut the tops of the slivers off so they are level with the floor. If the glue has been left to harden overnight, you will be able to kick the slivers off, leaving the gaps filled. Step 6 Clean up the mess and get ready for sanding This method of filling gaps is typically more expensive, however, it will last longer than other methods. It is also less prone to cracking as it shifts with the floor.

GJP Floor Sanding uses specially manufactured strips of reclaimed pine, the strips are glued with a D3 PVA glue and hammered into the gaps before being chiselled off and polished back. To give you a more detailed overview of the process: Step 1: Re-nail floor, punching all nail heads into the floor 3-4mm deep Step 2: Clean joints out carefully, taking care not to catch any electric cables/water pipes, etc Step 3: Take the wedges (“Slivers”), place them into the joints (ie. the gaps between the boards) to check that the Sliver ‘seems at home’. Remove Sliver and put glue down each side. Now place Sliver into the gap, take a hammer and bounce it up along the Sliver, forcing it into the gap. The further it goes in, the better. The Slivers will squash the boards up

We use a number of professional wood floor lacquers all of which are water based and safe. Our ranges include, BonaKemi, Becker Acroma, Johnston’s & Jenkins. If you would like a natural oil finish, we use Osmo polyx hard oil, available in matt or silk.

Oil-treated surface

If you choose an oil-treated surface for your new refinished / sanded wood floor, you get the maximum protection of the surface which is also environmentally friendly. The natural look and feel of the wood floor will stand out. The natural exchange of moisture in the room is promoted by the porus surfaces, which is also beneficial to allergy sufferers. In additon oil-treated surfaces are easy to care for, and can be partially refurbished

Oil-treated, brushed surface

Planks treated in this wayfeature a marked accentuation of the grain. They have a really tradtional and authentic look. This special appeal is created by the use of steel brushes which remove the soft wood from the surface of the wood, giving the planks a special hardness as well.

Lacquered surface

Lacquered planks are just the right solution if you want a surface with a silky mat finish. The exclusive furniture quality look featuring multilayered UV acrylis lacquer gives them an elegant touch. What’s more, a lacquered surface is hygenic and easy to care for.

Yes you can sand your own floors, but pelase bear in mind that this is going to be a time-consuming and labour-intensive process. Make sure that you’ve set plenty of time aside and are feeling up to the task. A 20 feet square room will take one person around five to eight hours, depending on your adeptness and the state of the floor, as a rule of thumb. In you are having second thoughts GJP Floor Sanding employs a number of professionals that can do the job for you. You should only attempt to sand a floor if it’s made of a soft wood and is in something which you could comfortably class as reasonably restorable condition. If you’re confident that you can do it yourself, rent a heavy duty sander which can be powered by the mains. Rent an edge sander too, and invest in ear protection.

Step 1: Floor assessment The first thing we want to do is assess your floor to determine whether or not we need to complete any repairs. Is it just minor scratches that we are dealing with or is there something more serious happening? If no repairs are needed then we can simply remove the stains, paint, etc. with an approved floor cleaner. Step 2: Clean the wood floor It is important to sweep and ensure that there is no debris on the floor. Leaving granules of sand can cause scratches and other issues during the buffing process. Step 3: Sand the floor During this step we will use our sanding machines to remove all the scratches and wear and tear in the floor. If this is just a minor job then we can simply buffer off the old finish and there will be no need to go down to the timber. Step 4: Clean up We will be using various sanding grits with decreasing abrasiveness. In between each grit, we will need to clean up. As well, once the sanding is completed, we will do a final cleaning to prep the floor for sealing. Step 5: Seal the floor Sealing the floor isn’t always required but if your floor doesn’t appear to be soaking up the stain evenly then you will want to apply a sealant. It never hurts to seal the floor as it does create a nice even look and it also protects your wooden floor. Step 6: Finishing touches Now it is time to apply the stain or oil that was previously used on your wooden floor. Applying a couple of thin coats is better than using one thick coat of stain.